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A Very Mature Tale: The Crumbly, Creamy History of Cheese in England

04 June 2025

A Very Mature Tale: The Crumbly, Creamy History of Cheese in England

Cheese. Whether it's melted between slices of bread, served on a board with grapes and pretension, or hidden somewhere deep inside a warmed pastry, it's a food that needs no introduction. But while modern Brits may argue about Red Leicester vs. Stilton or brie vs. brie with truffle, few stop to consider just how long cheese has been lurking in our national culinary identity. Spoiler: it's been a while.

This isn't just a snack. It's a heritage. So let's take a deep, dairy-rich dive into the history of cheese in England - from prehistoric pastures to postmodern cheese boards.

In the Beginning: Ancient Cheddar and Accidental Alchemy

The earliest whispers of cheese in Britain predate written history. Archaeologists have uncovered evidence of cheesemaking in Neolithic settlements - we're talking around 6,000 years ago. Ceramic sieves thought to be used for straining curds have been found across what is now England, which means some of our ancestors were already separating curds from whey long before we figured out how to write about it.

But it wasn't until the Romans turned up around 43 AD, in their sandals and togas, that things got truly interesting. The Romans didn't just bring roads and baths - they brought refined cheesemaking techniques. They used rennet (a coagulant taken from the stomach lining of young animals - less appetising than it sounds, but extremely effective), and they were keen on aging and flavouring cheeses. Roman soldiers were even given cheese rations on the march. What a time to be alive.

The Medieval Milestone: Monks, Manor Farms, and Cheddar's Birth

By the Middle Ages, cheese was more than just an occasional indulgence - it was a staple of the British diet. Monasteries were the Michelin-starred kitchens of the day, and monks, with their long hours and attention to detail, became masters of fermentation and dairy.

They weren't making cheese for charcuterie boards. They were feeding entire communities. These were cheeses that lasted through winters, could be traded, and kept you from starving when the ale ran dry.

It was during this period that some of England's most enduring cheeses began to take shape - quite literally. Cheshire is first mentioned in writing in the 12th century and was widely consumed throughout the north of England. Cheddar, meanwhile, emerged in the West Country - specifically the village of Cheddar in Somerset - where the caves of Cheddar Gorge offered the perfect naturally cool and humid conditions for aging.

It's said that one milkmaid, in a rush to meet her suitor (or possibly just fed up with her chores), left a bucket of milk in a cave, only to return and discover the curds had formed into something unexpectedly delicious. Whether that tale is true or not, Cheddar became a fast favourite. By the late medieval period, it was already being traded across the country.

The Early Modern Era: Royal Rinds and Regional Rivalries

By the 16th and 17th centuries, England had embraced cheese not just as sustenance but as a sign of regional identity and economic power. Farms across the country were producing their own distinctive cheeses - Lancashire, Derby, Gloucester - and selling them at bustling market towns.

The cheese trade was booming. So much so, in fact, that Queen Victoria was gifted a massive wheel of Cheddar cheese - over 1,000 pounds - for her wedding in 1840 (Possibly the best wedding gift ever). It was so large, it had to be pulled in on a wagon. There's no record of whether she finished it, but it was the kind of royal endorsement that cemented Cheddar's place in the national consciousness.

At the same time, English cheesemakers were developing more sophisticated production methods. Tools like the cheese press allowed for firmer textures, and aging became more controlled. In short, cheese was moving from humble peasant food to a product of pride and craftsmanship.

A Dark Age of Cheese: War, Rationing, and the National Loaf

Then came the 20th century. And with it, two world wars, industrialisation, and the rise of mass production. During the Second World War, cheese, like everything else, fell under the strict thumb of rationing. The Ministry of Food introduced a single, government-issued variety simply called "National Cheese." It was functional, flavourless, and made in bulk.

Artisan cheesemaking - like many things during wartime - was shelved in favour of uniformity and efficiency. Cheddar was still produced, but in its most utilitarian form. The war didn't just change the way people ate - it reset the entire food system. After the war, British cheese had to start over.

The Great Cheese Revival: From Plastic Slices to Artisan Glory

By the 1970s and 80s, something miraculous began to happen. Tired of rubbery supermarket blocks and plastic-wrapped slices that barely resembled the real thing, a few brave souls decided to bring traditional cheesemaking back.

They started small. Farmhouse operations in Somerset, Yorkshire, and Cornwall began reviving old techniques. They visited archives, interviewed retired cheesemakers, and experimented with raw milk and traditional aging processes. Out of this effort came an incredible resurgence in regional British cheeses.

By the early 2000s, Britain wasn't just catching up - it was leading the way. The rise of the Slow Food movement, renewed interest in local sourcing, and a demand for flavour over convenience gave cheesemakers the spotlight. And they rose to the occasion, rinds and all.

Today, England produces more than 700 named cheeses, including internationally respected varieties like Stilton, Cornish Yarg, Tunworth, and Lincolnshire Poacher. Even the European Union took notice - many English cheeses now carry protected status, ensuring they can only be made in specific regions using traditional methods.

Cheese Today: A Culture Worth Cultivating

So here we are. From prehistoric curds to artisan cult followings, English cheese has come full circle. We've gone from a nation of necessity to a nation of nuance. Whether you like your cheese creamy, crumbly, blue-veined, or barnyard-y, there's an English cheese for you.

And while we no longer rely on monks in cellars to feed the village (shame, really), the respect for craft and culture remains. Modern British cheese isn't just food. It's history you can taste.

Fancy a Slice?

If reading all this has left you itching for a wedge of Wensleydale or a nibble of Norfolk White Lady, you're in luck. If you're a cheese lover - and honestly, aren't we all? - we offer plenty of Tasting Experiences to suit your fancy, including Cheese and Meat Subscription Boxes delivered straight to your door and even Cheese and Cider Tastings.

So pour yourself a Glass of Red, grab some crackers, and prepare to get reacquainted with one of England's oldest - and tastiest - traditions.

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